TOKYO

Tokyo Nov. 26, 2006

Ahh, it was a sad fact, but I was taking off for my Tokyo adventure with all the tell tale signs of a cold. Try as I might to stave it off, I was taking it with me on my trip to Tokyo, the big city. I was quite relieved to have made all my train connections, although I barely caught the Keisei at Nippori on time. But it was quite magickal to have it all work out just fine. I met my cousin at the Keisei Narita train station. I have not seen him in 20 odd years, but he still looked like Go to me.
Back at his home in Narita, I was able to cozy up under a heated blanket and was presented with a plate full of beautiful sushi by his wife. I got the beer I asked for and we conversed about my move to Japan. I stayed in their daughter’s room (who was now living with her grandfather in the Shinjuku area) and had a comfy room to sleep in filled with Barbie doll collectables.

The next day, I grabbed a ride with family into Harajuku. I got out on the bustling Harajuku lane of Takeshita Street. I had a plan to see some Kodo players at the Earth Beat festival. So I trucked my way to Yoyogi Park to see if I could find any signs of the festival. There appeared to be little indications of any kind of festival and then I did what I really should have done long time ago, which was to call the number listed for the earth beat festival. Turns out the concert was at Tiara Koto near the Sumiyoshi station, a fair distance from Yoyogi Park. I hemmed and hawed a lot, pondering what I should do. I knew that I should make my way back to the Harajuku station and find our more information about how I could get to this station. But it was also a Sunday on Harajuku and there was such a buzz. I know in retrospect that I should have just high tailed it to Sumiyoshi, after all, Harajuku on Sundays would always be there, but Earth Beat and a performance by Kodo’s Tsubasa was a once in a life time moment. Well I will just write it off on being delirious from my cold, but I meandered about and thought that since I was there I might as well check out the Meiji shrine on my way to Harajuku station.

And so I did. The leisurely walk amongst other folks, many foreigners indeed, and kimono-clad youngsters, was pleasant. I walked through the giant tori (gate) made of cypress trunks. I caught a wedding taking place and tried to take some pictures. I said some prayers and bought some good luck amulets, figuring I could use the luck these days. On my way out, I caught another wedding procession. I guess it is a popular thing to do around there.

I made my way to the train station, but was allured by the Harajuku hype and decided to take a stroll. It was very Camden like (London) to me, I thought, oozing with tourists and a place where you buy a punk rock look from head to toe. Of course, I loved it. So I decide to finally check out the train routes. After studying the maps, I realize how far Sumiyoshi is from where I am and I lose hope. I think I lost hope when I first talked to the guy who told me it was at least 30 minutes away or so and that perhaps I would not make it. I kind of felt like if I could not be there fro the beginning of the show, that perhaps it would not be worth it, although he did tell me that they would perform at 3:00. I guess I just did not want to trek all the way out there and not be able to find the place or miss the whole damn thing and ruin my whole day completely. Anyway, just another reminder why it is so important to plan well in Japan.
Once I realized that I would not make it to the performance, I felt somewhat free and leisurely explored the area around Harajuku and down Omotesando, filled with designer stores, making my way down to Shibuya. I popped into the Oriental Bazaar, which is supposed to be a great place for gaijin to buy presents to take back home. And it did seem quite good. I then went looking for food. I found an Indian restaurant with palak paneer, so of course I could not resist.
While waiting for my ride back, I caved in and started shopping in Harajuku. First it was a Goth wallet, and then a shirt, then earrings, and then another shirt, and gloves! I was on a shopping roll! That brought an end to my first day in the big city.
The next day I had my job interview in Chiba. This was another reason that I did not want to stay out late. So I made my plans with Go, who would drive me to the station the next morning. I stayed up way too late drinking beer with Go and had a lovely ofuro before dragging myself to bed.
I could have slept forever, as I felt like crap for my interview, but it went fairly well. The interview was long and I sweated over the grammar test, but not too long. That damn active and passive voice showed its ugly head. They wanted me to take the Narita position for mid December and I was not down with that. The distant was too far I realized. But I plowed ahead with the interview and met and spoke with the Japanese manager who complemented my Japanese.

I was very happy to get out of there, change, and hit the town. Except that it took me a good hour to get there. I made my way to Asakusa, as it would be a good place to go if it rained. It was bustling even for a Monday. I have seen pictures of the huge lantern in front of the gates. Walking through the lane filled with stalls, I ended up in front of the temple and smoked myself out before heading up to the big area for prayers. It looked beautiful and very grand. There was a pagoda and many statues of shrines where one could offer prayers. After taking it all in and taking a bunch of photos, I realized I was very hungry and went looking for food, always difficult, especially when one is hungry. I opted for ramen at what turned out to be a Chinese restaurant. I encountered the foulest bathroom since my trip to Japan (even public bathrooms are amazingly clean). It just reeked and I gagged.

I left the area and decided to take a quick look at Shinjuku. I gave myself a brief 30 minutes, not much time really. It was just huge and very neon, very bustling. The mass of humanity. I saw some Harajuku girls all line up in an area that appeared to have a lot of alternative music shops. I assumed that someone hot and famous would be about. I then made my way to Shibuya as I would meet friends later on and did not want to lost and late. Shibuya was huge and of course, I had some problems hooking up, but it all worked out and she took me back onto the trains to go to Shimo-Kitazawa, a happening kind of place. Another friend was waiting for us at a popular seafood izakaya there. By the time I got there, I realize I had little time to hang out, as I would need to catch a certain train to make it home on time, as go wanted me home by midnight. So it was a very rushed session, but so great to see both of them again, in Tokyo of all places.

Kakegawa tea for sale in Shinjuku!

Urban Shrines can be found everywhere........ like this one

The next day after I purchase my ticket back to Kakegawa at Tokyo station, I met up with K-chan who will take me around for the day. We drop by an Okinawa store that is playing some cool Okinawa hip-hop sounds. I get a very thorough tour of Ni-chome with many tips. From there we make our way to Tokyo Han in the heart of Shinjuku. We are on a cake prowl. I think cake is very important for K-chan, as she has mentioned it several times. Fine by me, as I am tired and cold. So K-chan is a Japanese feminist and I mentioned to her about that politician’s anti feminist blurb against gender equality that I read online several months back. She told me of a politician who suggested that women past childbearing age should not receive any health care, as they are of no use! This is a good reason for woman not to remain here for too long. After partaking of coffee and shi shi cheesecake, we check out Tokyo Han and I pick up a calendar. It is called a creative store, so it is like a department store with an artsy angle.
We part ways as rush hour is upon us.

Just one last trip though to Ochanomizu to track down Oedo Sukeroku Taiko. And I can’t believe that I actually tracked it down. I was feeling very sick by then. I had a terrible hacking cough that I could not control and had to run out of the subway when a fit hit me. I discovered that it was the air in that particular subway station that was foul, so I felt panicky, not knowing what to do. Get out, or hop on a train, or get the hell out of the station? I get back on the train and resume my journey. Tough it out.
So I am trying to study the maps at Ochanomizu, so that I can find the taiko mecca, but to no avail. I could not make heads or tails. When I am close to giving up, I find it. Several landmarks catch my attention and when I backtrack to where it should be, I am shocked to discover that it is indeed there, in such an innocuous building, so incredibly forgettable and concealed in darkness with very little fanfare except for a sing above the door. I feel too sick and tired to know what to do. I gather what little courage I have to crack open the door and wow, what a spectacular sight. There is a narrow staircase leading upstairs and the wall is covered with taiko skins and what seems to be percussive like instruments such as uchiwas. Maybe it was all skins. That was indeed the building. All I could do was stand there with my mouth hanging open. I have a string of communications in the form of lost e-mails and this is what prevented me from running up those stairs. I had some time, so I debated with myself. Should I go up? The lights appeared on upstairs. How could I come so far and be so lost only to walk away without saying hi or something. Should I drag myself up there like the person who has crossed a dessert and encountered numerous mirages? I stood there for what seemed to be like forever. I wanted to prostrate myself in front of this plain and ugly building. I wanted to enter, but dare not, for I was in a pitiable state. I finally talked myself into leaving, as it would not be a great first impression to bring my sickly self into the presence of others. It was with a heavy heart that I left. I felt like I had traveled to Japan just to see them, but could not. It was a difficult moment. I felt like a wimp, a coward. But I promised I would return in fine and triumphant form.

My feverish view